Harrison M250 Lathe Manual Pdf
Harrison M250 Lathe Manual Pdf Rating: 5,5/10 9119 reviews
Harrison M250 Restoration. Was being numpty forgot I had a pdf manual on my phone! Looks like I need a m12 bolt to hold the toolpost down. Should be easy to sort then, buy the one linked, when it comes, use a bit of studd bar to fix it to the lathe and turn the supplied bolt to the right size. Wizoo latigo crack mac n. Live fast, die young, if that doesnt work.
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- Bob Sharp (UK)Plastic
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Further to previous message ..
Is there any documentation on maintaining/repairing Harrison M300 lathes ?
The users manual has drawings of the gearbox parts, but not how to dismantle and replace.
Problem is in the lower (screw feed) gearbox.
If anyone knows someone who can sort it .. I am in Reading, UK, postcode RG2 8JP, or can be contacted by email: [email protected]
best regards - Hot Rolled
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I have a 1990ish M300 and have been into the feed box. What problem are you having? Mine stopped shifting and on dissection found the delrin shift cams were gummed up with coolant that had leaked into the box. Cleaned it all up and re-assembled with sealant and have not had a problem since.
Tim - Bob Sharp (UK)Plastic
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Hi
Bought the lathe over a year ago.
Just after Xmas I finally found someone to wire it to an inverter (which is a bit lightweight for this lathe).
Until a month ago, the feed gears were ok - except the 'X' (slowest ?) did not engage. Now none of them will engage.
What is the procedure to get into the gearbox ?
Do I need to take all the bars (under the saddle) off ?
best regards - Hot Rolled
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Position X means the leadscrew is dis-engaged from the box. You generally run the machine with the lead screw in X. You should have feeds though. The 'bars' under the carriage are the leadscrew, feed drive rod, and the rod that controls the on-off switch. The on-off rod is attached to the switch linkage under the indices plate on the gearbox. There is a collar that has to be unlocked to allow the rod to slide out of the linkage assembly. Before you remove the plate set the gearbox in a state that you can remember on assembly ...something like BSX1.
Remove the knobs and plates and you'll see the soc cap screws holding the box onto the bed. You will have to remove the change gear housing as I recall also.....but you know, I bet if you just drain the oil and refill with mineral spirits or parafin and run the thing and rinse and repeat...it'll probably start to work!!!
Tim - Bob Sharp (UK)Plastic
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Hooray ! Finally got the gearbox off.
Glad I did. Makes me really appreciate the machine.
Can anyone tell me how the gears are used to control ..
(1) normal cuts.
(2) thread cutting.
The round knob at lower left, how is that used with the three gear-change knobs ?
best regards
Bob - Stainless
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Bob, If you look at the gear clusters as you operate a) the WXY, ABC, RST and 1-8 knobs you should get a feel for the operation. The 3 position ones are simple since they only have 3 positions
If you look at the tooth counts in the exploded diagram, you will find that various combinations of the available ratios are what creates the entire inch and metric range available on the M300.
Kinda sad but I watched an M300 sell for $300 on Saturday. It had a Buck 8', 3 jaw set-tru chuck and the Harrison taper attachment. Either of those is worth many times the sales price I was not in the market or would have grabbed them up.
What I find interesting about the gearbox is the clever nature of the guys who designed them, especially covering both inch and metric at the same time.
FYI, On a metric machine, the metric pitches are spot on, inch pitches have VERY low error. Vice versa on an inch machine.
The M300 also does MOD pitches and there is a chart somewhere (inside the end panel ??). One or two gears in the end panel get changed to cut those pitches.
Almost forgot, your question B). In X position, the feed rod will be driven while in W or Y, the leadscrew will be driven .. each by the gear ratios that have been set up by the other knobs.
Just curious, what was the condition inside your gearbox?
Den - Bob Sharp (UK)Plastic
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Oops. Bit confused with the last part about feeds (B).
Inside of gearbox looked (to my untrained eye) immaculate. There was blue tinge on the WXY shaft (when the shafts lock together) but that may be from hardening.
Once it's back on the machine and working, I'll be a happy bunny. [img]smile.gif[/img] - Hot Rolled
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Did you notice there is no gasket along the top of the box?? I used RTV to seal the gap. That is where coolant gets in. BTW, you never stated exactly what problem your having.....can you change the the knob settings or are they stuck. Does the knob 1-8 not turn? Do the knobs engage the gears but no output?? Enquiring minds want to know!
WXY knob controls the leadscrew for left or right hand threads and X is leadscrew neutral.
Tim - Stainless
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Tim, Does the 1990 model have the straight front in the control area or the older step (which I have)? Is that straight front actually the front of the casting or is it empty space created by a filler 'box'? How quiet is that model from 1200 rpm on up? Sorry for all the questions, there aren't too many Harrison guys on this forum
Bob, We have a Harrison guru in the Northeast area and you MUST have someone in the UK, home of these babies. The best information I have from Harrison here is that there are no further documents. You have to work your way thru the machine, figuring out what holds it all together I replaced a set of very noisy bearings on what I'll call the 'input shaft' from the drive pulley. Getting the old out was a little tricky but only due to my inexperience with the machine. One of the most important things I've learned is to not apply pressure until I'm certain about which way a 'thing' goes. The other thing is to put the hammer away when working on precision machinery and when you do take it out, make sure it's BIG enough
Den - Hot Rolled
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Dennh....My M300 is a 1991 that I bought new and has a 'panel' for the speed and gearbox feed/direction knobs. the gearbox for feeds/threads is below that and forms a step about big enough to hold my beer can. As far as quiet, well, it's quiet for a gearhead machine. I don't spend alot of time at those speeds though. I got mine with the Ainjest high speed threading attachment and really like that feature. Have'nt heard anyone else who have used one though.
Tim - Stainless
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Tim, I guess the straight front must have been a late '90s change. I've seen that rapid threader on an accessory list. How does it work?
At this time, I do my threading with slow forward and reverse with a VFD and never disengage the leadscrew. I probably could not thread to a shoulder with this technique however unless I cut from left to right or add braking resistors for almost instant stop.
Apologies to Bob for a partial hijack of his thread.
Den
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